An Afternoon of Burgundies

Hubert Lamy St. Aubin Clos de la Chateniere 2008Meursault 2006 Domaine et SelectionMeursault VV Maison Roche de Bellene 1993Robert Arnoux Bourgogne 2002Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Les Goulots 1998Drouhin-Laroze Musigny 2003Robert Arnoux Vosne-Romanee Les Chaumes 2001Many thanks to AK and AAK who generously provided the wines and hosted the drinking session, and also RL who brought all the delicious rollmops, german baby shrimps, cheeses, and envy apples! Truth be told, going through seven bottles in about 2+ hours didn’t really allow me to see any huge transformation on all the wines but there were a few interesting observations.

Lamy’s Clos de la Chateniere 2008 was packed with such a racy acidity that it was painfully addictive; Maison Roche de Bellene’s 1993 Meursault VV was wonderfully mature and weighed upon my palate after awhile; Domaine et Selection’s (Coche Dury) Meursault 2006 was beautiful – a textbook expression of what excellent young Burgundian white should be like, and it’s a style many people in the New World tried so hard to emulate.

Robert Arnoux’s basic Bourgogne 2002 was by far the most interesting. The amount of Brett (think manure, barnyard, etc.) was absolutely pronounced but not to the point where it overwhelmed the underlying characteristics of the wine. What I found interesting was that the Brett profile seemed a little finicky – one moment it was all there in full blast, and the next thing you know, they disappeared completely. Surprisingly good but not for everyone. I can imagine how off-putting this can be to a lot of wine drinkers. Brett + reductive aromas: killer combination. His Vosne-Romanee Les Chaumes 2001 was good, and the style adopted was consistent with core structure of the Bourgogne (without the Brett).

Fourrier’s 1998 Gevrey-Chambertin was another surprise when it was first poured into a glass. The colour was so light that it looked more like a cloudy free-run Pinot Noir juice than an aged wine! Eventually a darker shade of Pinot Noir colour returned but it was definitely the lightest in colour of the whole flight. And it was also the most acidic of all the reds on first sip?

I was expecting a huge, powerful showing from Drouhin-Laroze Musigny 2003 but was surprised to find that the wine was not as heavy and inky as one would expect from the vintage. There was a certain greenness in the wine and I thought it was quite unforgiving. I’m hoping SW is right that it may come into its own in years to come. Not quite cohesive right now even though the aromas were enticing.

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