A Comparison of Gevrey-Chambertin Poissenot

Stuffed Crab ShellChateau Musar 1988
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Poissenot 2001 Domaine Humbert Freres
Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Le Poissenot 1998

Another indulgent dinner. Started the evening with some Diebolt-Vallois BdB. The stuffed crab shell wasn’t bad, and obviously wasn’t the only thing we ordered for dinner: The deep fried frog legs, salt & pepper white bait, homemade spinach tofu, roasted pork neck meat & bbq chicken liver, stir fried tripe and black pepper beef short ribs with mushrooms were all decent, well executed dishes which did not clash with any of the wines.

C + C brought along two bottles of Gevrey-Chambertin Poissenot to try. Geantet-Pansiot’s version was very aromatic, seductive and alluring while Humbert Freres’ rendition of the same terroir was more prim and proper (think wife vs mistress?). Personally I found the latter to have too much oak influence but retained a somewhat tart, acidic profile on the palate. There was a whiff of cork taint but that dissipated quickly. My friends and I also noted that the wine had seeped through the cork on Humbert Freres’ bottle – probably won’t last very long given its current condition. The 1988 Ch. Musar was quite gamey, leathery and definitely had a touch of Brett on the nose. Dried orange peel and dried cherry aromas emerged after a little aeration. There’s a slightly sweet aftertaste that lingered on the palate. Med acidity with a med+ to long finish. Plenty of minerality and sufficient red fruit profile kept the wine fresh and lively, though the cork was already very fragile and dropped right into the bottle the moment I tried to pry it out with a corkscrew.

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