An Afternoon of Burgundies

Hubert Lamy St. Aubin Clos de la Chateniere 2008Meursault 2006 Domaine et SelectionMeursault VV Maison Roche de Bellene 1993Robert Arnoux Bourgogne 2002Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Les Goulots 1998Drouhin-Laroze Musigny 2003Robert Arnoux Vosne-Romanee Les Chaumes 2001Many thanks to AK and AAK who generously provided the wines and hosted the drinking session, and also RL who brought all the delicious rollmops, german baby shrimps, cheeses, and envy apples! Truth be told, going through seven bottles in about 2+ hours didn’t really allow me to see any huge transformation on all the wines but there were a few interesting observations.

Lamy’s Clos de la Chateniere 2008 was packed with such a racy acidity that it was painfully addictive; Maison Roche de Bellene’s 1993 Meursault VV was wonderfully mature and weighed upon my palate after awhile; Domaine et Selection’s (Coche Dury) Meursault 2006 was beautiful – a textbook expression of what excellent young Burgundian white should be like, and it’s a style many people in the New World tried so hard to emulate.

Robert Arnoux’s basic Bourgogne 2002 was by far the most interesting. The amount of Brett (think manure, barnyard, etc.) was absolutely pronounced but not to the point where it overwhelmed the underlying characteristics of the wine. What I found interesting was that the Brett profile seemed a little finicky – one moment it was all there in full blast, and the next thing you know, they disappeared completely. Surprisingly good but not for everyone. I can imagine how off-putting this can be to a lot of wine drinkers. Brett + reductive aromas: killer combination. His Vosne-Romanee Les Chaumes 2001 was good, and the style adopted was consistent with core structure of the Bourgogne (without the Brett).

Fourrier’s 1998 Gevrey-Chambertin was another surprise when it was first poured into a glass. The colour was so light that it looked more like a cloudy free-run Pinot Noir juice than an aged wine! Eventually a darker shade of Pinot Noir colour returned but it was definitely the lightest in colour of the whole flight. And it was also the most acidic of all the reds on first sip?

I was expecting a huge, powerful showing from Drouhin-Laroze Musigny 2003 but was surprised to find that the wine was not as heavy and inky as one would expect from the vintage. There was a certain greenness in the wine and I thought it was quite unforgiving. I’m hoping SW is right that it may come into its own in years to come. Not quite cohesive right now even though the aromas were enticing.

Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques 2000, Burgundy, France

I’ve always liked Fourrier’s wines but I sometimes frown upon his choice of closure. Anyway, the wine screamed his name on first pour – lots of strawberries and cream. That evolved into darker fruit characteristics with good tannin structure, acidity and length. Fortunately this was consumed before the Armand Rousseau yesterday 😛

A Wonderful Evening with Great Company at Ten Shin

Vincent Girardin Quintessence de Corton Charlemagne 2005Many thanks again to AK and AnK (Joyeux Anniversaire!) for the great company, lovely dinner and all the excellent wines. We started off the evening with a few sips of the beautiful Quintessence de Corton-Charlemagne by Vincent Girardin. The pronounced toasted hazelnut aromas when it was first opened 2 days ago dissipated somewhat and its citrus characters emerged with layers of creme fraiche. Not a common Corton-Charlemagne I’m used to but it was oh-so-delicious!Dom Perignon Oenotheque 1976The Champagne was a gem – many thanks to the birthday girl! Wonderfully fresh and lively on the palate, with a yeasty and nutty nose. Very good balance. I couldn’t have asked for more. Went down perfectly well with the starters.

Lalou Bize-Leroy Meursault Les Narvaux 2000One of the coveted wines that I could only dream of buying – it was truly memorable. The unmistakable matchstick, flint and lemony aromas were to die for. Stunning minerality, complex and balanced on the palate. This light golden wine was paired with some yummy Japanese sweet corn and an excellent array of sashimi. Moreish.

Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques 1997The Armand Rousseau Clos St. Jacques was poured side by side with the Aux Malconsorts by Slyvain Cathiard with the main tempura courses.The Clos St. Jacques was drinking extremely well. Lifted aromas of red berries and spices on the nose and palate compared to the Malconsorts which was a little tight and a tad shy. In fact, I found the Slyvain Cathiad’s offering a little metallic at first but after a little aeration in the glass, its more muscular and cherry-based profile surfaced. If you thought pairing lightly battered deep fried seafood and vegetables with red burgundies is a faux pas, let me assure you it’s not always the case, evident from my experience at Ten Shin. If you know your wines well and understand the cuisine, the pairing can really knock your socks off.Sylvain Cathiard Vosne Romanee Aux Malconsorts 1999Note: All pictures were taken using an iPhone4 with Instagram 🙂 Too lazy to carry my camera around 😛

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines Vielle Vigne 2008, Domaine Fourrier, Burgundy, France

Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Combes aux Moines Domaine Fourrier 2008Dark ruby red with a clear raspberry rim. Strong kirsch cherries and dried rosetta flowers on the nose with just a whiff of white pepper. Tart, fresh cranberries and blackcurrants, med+ to high acidity, muscular tannins, and excellent minerality which ended with a somewhat med+ finish. Tasty. The sweetness on the nose was misleading but oh so wonderful to sniff. However, I wasn’t too pleased with the quality of the cork used and I’m not sure they can withstand the test of time. Tried the wine again after just a few hours and the floral tones and primary fruit varietal flavours really fleshed out, and that sweetish aromas were more of a layering effect than anything else. Quite a different wine from the basic GC VV I had not too long ago.