Some Memorable Bottles

Meursault-Genevriere 1er Cru 2008 Maison Roche de BelleneRomanee Saint-Vivant 2000 Nicolas Potel
Gevrey Chambertin Poissenot 1er Cru 2008 Maison Roche de Bellene
Vosne Romanee 1er Cru En Orveaux 1999 Sylvain Cathiard

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another round of wine tasting and pig out session at AAK again! There were two Chablis Le Clos Grand Cru 2004 by William Fevre and Christian Moreau in the line up. Both had plenty of minerality, delicate oyster shell notes and even a touch of salinity on the palate by they were overshadowed by the beautifully perfumed 2008 Meursault Genvrieres by Potel (Maison Roche de Bellene) and remained the only white that immediately left an impression yesterday afternoon. I should have bought some when I had the chance. Damnit.

The purity, and what I would say is quintessentially a true expression of the Pinot Noir varietal were found on Potel’s Gevrey-Chambertin Poissenot. Still a baby, but very promising. If you like an explosion of primary fruit flavours in your glass of wine, crack this open within a year or two. Otherwise I would cellar them for 10-15 years.

My favourite reds for the afternoon were Sylvain Cathiard’s Vosne Romanee 1er Cru En Orveaux and Nicolas Potel’s Romanee St-Vivant Grand Cru 2000. In a span of 7 days, I have tasted Cathiard’s En Orveaux, Les Malconsorts and Les Suchots from the 1999 vintage. All of them were exceptionally good but the En Orveaux was, by far, the most feminine and seductive of them all.

Potel’s Romanee St-Vivant was also showing well despite the presence of Brett on the nose – it was just a subtle touch but some people may find it hard to accept. Good density and weight on the palate with layers of black fruit profile in the background. Some aeration will help this wine to shine. Ripe and smooth texture. I’m now trying to resist the temptation to grab a few bottles!

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An Afternoon of Burgundies

Hubert Lamy St. Aubin Clos de la Chateniere 2008Meursault 2006 Domaine et SelectionMeursault VV Maison Roche de Bellene 1993Robert Arnoux Bourgogne 2002Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Les Goulots 1998Drouhin-Laroze Musigny 2003Robert Arnoux Vosne-Romanee Les Chaumes 2001Many thanks to AK and AAK who generously provided the wines and hosted the drinking session, and also RL who brought all the delicious rollmops, german baby shrimps, cheeses, and envy apples! Truth be told, going through seven bottles in about 2+ hours didn’t really allow me to see any huge transformation on all the wines but there were a few interesting observations.

Lamy’s Clos de la Chateniere 2008 was packed with such a racy acidity that it was painfully addictive; Maison Roche de Bellene’s 1993 Meursault VV was wonderfully mature and weighed upon my palate after awhile; Domaine et Selection’s (Coche Dury) Meursault 2006 was beautiful – a textbook expression of what excellent young Burgundian white should be like, and it’s a style many people in the New World tried so hard to emulate.

Robert Arnoux’s basic Bourgogne 2002 was by far the most interesting. The amount of Brett (think manure, barnyard, etc.) was absolutely pronounced but not to the point where it overwhelmed the underlying characteristics of the wine. What I found interesting was that the Brett profile seemed a little finicky – one moment it was all there in full blast, and the next thing you know, they disappeared completely. Surprisingly good but not for everyone. I can imagine how off-putting this can be to a lot of wine drinkers. Brett + reductive aromas: killer combination. His Vosne-Romanee Les Chaumes 2001 was good, and the style adopted was consistent with core structure of the Bourgogne (without the Brett).

Fourrier’s 1998 Gevrey-Chambertin was another surprise when it was first poured into a glass. The colour was so light that it looked more like a cloudy free-run Pinot Noir juice than an aged wine! Eventually a darker shade of Pinot Noir colour returned but it was definitely the lightest in colour of the whole flight. And it was also the most acidic of all the reds on first sip?

I was expecting a huge, powerful showing from Drouhin-Laroze Musigny 2003 but was surprised to find that the wine was not as heavy and inky as one would expect from the vintage. There was a certain greenness in the wine and I thought it was quite unforgiving. I’m hoping SW is right that it may come into its own in years to come. Not quite cohesive right now even though the aromas were enticing.

Dinner with the Burg Kakis

Vertical of Clos Vougeot and Nuits St. George
Burgundy Dinner at Jade Palace Nov 13, 2010

* Mersault 2001, Domaine Darviot-Perrin *

Deep Fried Fresh Bamboo Shoot & Crispy Fish Skin

Chilled Live Alaska King Crab Legs

Stir-Fried Alaskan King Crab Meat & Egg White with Truffle Oil

* Clos de Vougeot 1990 & 1993, Maison Roche de Bellene (Potel) *

Braised Soon Hock Fish with Bean Sticks , Garlic & Roast Pork

Roasted Pigeon

* Nuits St. George Clos de la Marechale 2000, Faiveley & 2006 JF Mugnier *

Braised Mushroom , Pig’s Tendon & Beancurd in Oyster Sauce

Steamed Goose Liver Sausage served with HK Kailan

Stewed Meepok with X.O. Sauce

I didn’t jot down any notes for the wines but some flavours and/or aromas stood out:

2001 Meursault –  honeyed, sweet ripe stoned fruits with a beautiful floral scent. Needed to breathe a little before it unleashed its full glory.

1990 Clos de Vougeot – fragrant preserved (dried) mandarin peel. A burg crowd pleaser 😉 Still has a life ahead of it.

1993 Clos de Vougeot – slow to emerge from its initial herbaceous aromas but revealed strong berry notes towards the end.

2000 NSG Faiveley – good pairing with the slightly peppery pig’s tendons and evolved the most in the entire flight of wines. A keeper!

2006 NSG Mugnier – Very fruit driven. Almost like a new world pinot noir on the nose. Still young and needs time. I kept getting the aromas of red bean soup or azuki beans. Went well with the slightly sweetish HK goose liver though.

 

Puligny-Montrachet 1992, Les Combettes, Maison Roche de Bellene, Nicolas Potel, Burgundy, France

Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes Maison Roche de Bellene 1992

A deep golden yellow that gave pronounced aromas of vanilla and coconut when it was first opened. Like a shy little girl, the wine soon blossomed into a fine beautiful graceful lady with notes of ripe pineapples and honey with a subtle touch of lemon. On the palate it was nutty and had that slight almond-bitter finish. A lot of white fruits on the tongue though acidity was more of a medium (-) and the length wasn’t as long as I hoped it would be. Definitely had more than enough complexity (some light kerosene or petrol notes were observed towards the end of the bottle) to go with the morroccan watercress and chickpeas (with an olive and coriander loaf) and the tinned razor clams I got from Alain. I was floored by this wine. If it was a blind tasting, I would have thought it was a young sauternes riesling just from the aromas alone (see…I can be quite bad at this).