a taste of hubert lamy 2010

I was addicted hooked the day I was introduced to Lamy’s fresh, vibrant (almost nervous) and delicious whites a few years ago. Those who have not tasted the wines will usually brush them off as a not-so-famous therefore equally not-as-good appellation. And this trend seems to be quite prevalent in the Chinese market where these wines are sold at ridiculously cheap prices. My dear friend AAK threw in a few other burgs for the tasting as well and if you don’t see any notes or pictures (for them) here, it can only mean I was too busy drinking the wines instead of typing vigorously on me phone.

Puligny-Montrachet 2009 Benjamin LerouxPuligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots VV 2010 Hubert Lamy

Puligny Montrachet Les Tremblots Vielles Vignes 2010 Hubert Lamy
Cream, vanilla, vibrant ripe lemon, lemon peel and a little smokiness; intense lime and oak flavours which are already well integrated at such an early age; medium-plus to high acid; medium-plus to long finish. Yummy!

Saint Aubin 1er Cru Derrières chez Edouard 2010 Hubert LamySaint Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 2010 Hubert LamySaint Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chateniere 2010 Hubert LamyChassagne Montrachet Le Concis de Champs 2009 Hubert Lamy

The trio of Saint-Aubin by Lamy was somewhat challenging on the tastebuds. I am not quite sure if I could tell them apart in a serious blind tasting and perhaps after a few years in bottle, their differences will be more apparent. I’m actually happy to report that the Clos de la Chateniere 2010 is really good, and I am glad I made a prudent decision on its pre-arrival offer. But you know what? The En Remilly and Derriere chez Edouard are also very moreish, especially with morsels of chevre on Maison Kayser‘s baguette.

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Derriere chez Edouard 2010 Hubert Lamy
White flowers, nectarines, chantilly cream; lime cordial, soursop, tart lemon; medium to medium-plus acid; medium length finish. The lightest of all the St.-Aubin.

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 2010 Hubert Lamy
Floral, limes, flint; rich, mineral notes, stones, oak and cream; medium-plus acid and finish.

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chateniere VV 2010 Hubert Lamy
Flinty, intense lime peel, vanilla pods, cream; intense lemon, oak, vibrant, juicy, tight, almost unyielding; medium-plus acid; long finish.

Chassagne-Montrachet Le Concis du Champs 2009 Hubert Lamy
Floral, perfumed, white flowers, a little tight, reductive; similar flavours on the palate with some nuances of light honey and field blossoms; elegant, tasty and slightly phenolic towards the end; medium-plus acid and length.

Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Cave des Ducs 2009 Benjamin Leroux
Perfumed, red cherries, jasmine tea leaves, a little earthy; ripe cherries, spicy, floral, elegant, light liquorice, slight tannic grip; medium to medium-plus acid and finish.

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the whites

Puligny-Montrachet 2008 RemoissenetMontrachet 2008 Maison Roche de BellenePuligny-Montrachet La Garenne 2006 Etienne SauzetAll the wines were served blind in the sequence shown above and here are my notes:

1. Puligny-Montrachet 2008 Remoissenet
Clean, flinty, fresh lemon peel, cream; fresh lime, tart lemon, vanilla and slightly bitter notes; medium-plus acid; medium-plus to long finish. (I brought this bottle).

2. Montrachet 2008 Maison Roche de Bellene
Clean, fresh, flinty, oak, vanilla, ripe lemons; intense oak and lemon flavours, smooth, tasty, slightly honeyed; medium to medium-plus acid; medium-plus finish. (Guessed the appellation correctly but got the year wrong – thought it was 2007).

3. Puligny-Montrachet La Garenne 2006 Etienne Sauzet
Muted, wet stones, oyster shells; strong oak and bitter lemon; medium to medium-plus acid; medium finish. White floral aromas appeared later as the wine warmed up in the glass. (I thought this was a chablis on first sniff but the white floral aromas and the strong flavours sent a different message. I thought the wine had seen some age on it and may have been a pre-2000 bottle. We were surprised when the answer was revealed. Time to drink up I guess!).

And here’s the starter that accompanied all the white burgs. For me the Montrachet did the job beautifully with the obsiblue prawns and the Remoissenet’s P-M was a better match with the scallops.

Obsiblue prawns and scallop

de Montille’s 2002 Le Cailleret

Domaine de Montille Puligny-Montrache Le Cailleret 2002This was excellent at the tasting. It checked all the boxes for a fine Le Cailleret which had seen some bottle aging. The wine is at its peak I believe and will probably plateau for a little while before some of its magic is lost. I gave up my allocation (just one bottle) to F&C since I was taking the (leftover) magnum of Leflaive home, and the fact that they really love their whites. This is a wine that I don’t mind sipping very slowly over a meal with good friends so that its nuances will get the chance to emerge from its slumber after being trapped in a glass bottle for so many years.

Brane-Cantenac 1975 and Jade Palace Singapore

Leflaive's Puligny Montrachet Claivoillon and Jade PalaceStarted the evening with a bottle of Leflaive’s 2003 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon which was brimming with mineral tones and sherry-like notes. It took quite awhile for my dinner companions and I to finish the bottle with the beautifully braised peanuts, the tasty frog legs (with deep fried ginger slices) and the roasted quails before we managed to move on to the reds.
Brane Cantenac 1975The Brane-Cantenanc 1975 which I have double decanted earlier was reticent at first but showed quite well after some aeration with an opaque garnet core, light brown hues and an orange-brownish rim. Lifted aromas of dried mandarin peel, and a little honeyed character on the nose when it was first uncorked. More floral tones developed later on with some aeration at the dinner table. Lots of sediment here. Delicate. Tart red fruits with a dose of cinnamon on the palate. Cloves and sour plum flavours emerged too with layers of secondary characteristics. And it went down quite well with the pan fried tofu with crabmeat and crab roe. Do note that the cork crumbled as I tried my best to pry it out of the bottle but fortunately, what it meant to protect was still fresh and lively. The wine still had a tannic grip but smooth and ripe. Med+ finish. Why can’t they make young Bordeaux taste like this? I’d hate to wait 20-30 years for wines to mature and show their peak performance!